Embroidery Thread

Knowing Your Embroidery Thread: Empower Yourself to Be a Better Embroiderer

Thread is the key element in your designs, whether shirts, caps, patches, or other projects, and machine embroidery thread is designed to create detailed embellishments on materials of all kinds. Choosing the right thread is essential, of course. The various weights, colors, fibers, and finishes all impact the look of the finished product, so one of the best things you can do for yourself as an embroiderer is to gain a solid working knowledge of the wide variety of embroidery thread types available. Informed choices will lead to higher-quality results and an enjoyable and satisfying experience in the embroidery room.

Embroidery Thread History: The Roots of Machine Embroidery Threads

The Evolution of Machine Embroidery

Embroidery has been around for millennia.  Examples of embroidered work have been found in fossilized textiles by archaeologists and designs have historically been stitched by hand, of course.  Machine embroidery is, in the grand scheme of things, a new technology, which began in the early 19th century with the invention of the first patented embroidery machine in France by Josue Heilmann based on Jacquard weaving looms. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, automated embroidery machines emerged, capable of creating intricate designs quickly and efficiently.  In the 1980s, the computerization of embroidery machines with punch cards or disks that could store information and reproduce automated designs revolutionized the machine embroidery process.  Today, machines follow digitized designs and are able to create precise, high-quality stitching at high speeds with impressive accuracy.

Of course, just as embroidery machines developed over time, threads have also changed and undergone improvements as well.  Embroidery threads first were made with animal-sourced fibers like wool and silk, and natural fibers like tree cellulose and cotton. But by the 20th century, advancements in technology have seen the development of synthetic materials like acrylic and polyester, as well as new fibers that self-extinguish when exposed to flame or are able to conduct electricity.  As these new textiles have been developed or refined, the variety of threads available to embroiderers has greatly expanded; never before have those working in the decorated apparel market enjoyed the diversity of choices in threads we have today.

Common Types of Machine Embroidery Thread

Design & Construction of Threads

The Process of How Machine Embroidery Threads Are MadeFiber Selection: Choosing raw fibers like polyester, rayon, cotton, or metallic.

  • Spinning: Winding fibers into single strands.
  • Twisting: Combining a number of single strands into the final thread.  Twists will vary in direction and tightness.
  • Dyeing: Coloring threads with high-quality dyes for vibrant, colorfast results.
  • Finishing: Applying various treatments to the finished thread to enhance properties like sheen and smoothness.
  • Winding: Spooling the threads onto cores for use.

Key Terms in Thread Construction

Ply: Refers to the number of strands twisted together; more plies mean thicker, stronger threads.

Twist: Refers to the way the plies are wound together. Twist affects strength and smoothness; direction of twists can affect texture, light refraction and look of the thread when embroidered into a design; tighter twists are stronger.

Sheen: Refers to the way light reflects off the thread fibers. Fiber shape has a direct effect on how high the sheen of the finished thread will be.

 

Characteristics to Think About When Choosing Thread

Strength and durability:  Does my finished project require the thread to be exposed to rough treatment, outdoor elements, or solvents?

Sheen and finish:  Is the look appropriate for the design and context of the finished project?  Will a shiny thread look rich or will the gloss look too garish on the end product?  Should I choose a matte finish for a softer, more delicate look?

 Colorfastness:  Will the finished embroidery be exposed to long periods of sunlight, UV rays or bleaching agents?  

 Thickness and weight:  Will my design benefit from a thick, textural thread?  Or am I doing small lettering that will be more legible with a thinner thread?

 Does my project require flame-resistance or reflectivity for enhanced visibility purposes?  

 Will I need special safety-conscious support materials like specialty backing or bobbins to meet safety requirements as well?

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