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Embroidery Supplies Guide
Embroidery Supplies Guide
Welcome to our comprehensive guide on embroidery supplies! Take a tour through all the essential embroidery supplies including embroidery thread, stabilizers / backing, bobbins, needles, accessories, notions, tools and other supplies. Whether you're a seasoned embroiderer or just starting out, having the right tools and materials is essential for creating stunning designs. Having knowledge of embroidery supplies is just as important. This page and the pages that follow will serve as a handy reference tool. Let's dive into the world of embroidery supplies and explore everything you need to know.
When you think of machine embroidery, you think of thread, which is the main ingredient, of course. The thread you choose can make the difference between designs that pop and come to life, or designs that look cheap and fall flat. There are different types of thread with different looks, applications and end uses, and understanding them will help you choose wisely right from the start.
Types of Embroidery Thread
Polyester thread is a man-made fiber, developed in the 20th century, and has a shimmery shine and high-tensile strength. Poly thread is popular for its versatility, durability, and colorfastness, making it ideal for embroidery on items like outdoor gear, uniforms, children’s wear, and clothing that requires frequent or industrial washing and exposure to bleach.
Rayon (viscose) thread has been around for over a century and is considered the “original” machine embroidery thread, having been developed for use in automated embroidery machines as a more durable alternative to silk. A cellulose product made from trees (a renewable resource), Rayon has a deep luster and satiny shine, and is commonly used decoratively for a rich, elegant look.
Metallic threads add sparkle and shine and are perfect for adding accents and embellishments to garments and accessories. The best metallic threads tend to cost a little more but will be well-designed with a durable metallic wrap and strong core. When tensioned correctly and used with the correct needle, they add an unrivaled, luxurious metallic gleam to your projects.
Special effects embroidery threads are designed to add unique and eye-catching elements to embroidery projects. These threads come in a variety of finishes, including highly-conductive, glow-in-the-dark, reflective, and more. They are used to create dynamic and distinctive designs that stand out and captivate.
Fire-resistant thread is designed to withstand high temperatures without igniting and is used in embroidery on safety equipment, protective clothing, and industrial applications.
Lyocell thread is made from cellulose fibers derived from wood pulp. The process for producing Lyocell starts with raw material from sustainably-managed forests using an eco-friendly "closed-loop" system that recycles almost all solvents, water, and emissions. This eco-friendly manufacturing process coupled with Lyocell’s organic and natural-looking finish pairs perfectly with organic and eco-friendly textiles. Lyocell fibers are smooth, silky, strong, and durable. Due to its softness and gentleness against the skin and its moisture-wicking properties, Lyocell is particularly suitable for performance wear, athleisure, intimates or infant and children’s garments. It runs smoothly through embroidery machines, producing a soft, subtle finish. clothing.
Threads with heavy texture can be made with various fibers and fiber blends, such as acrylic, which adds dimension and tactile interest to embroidery designs. Variegated threads are often an option in Polyester and Rayon threads and feature multiple repeating colors on a single strand for interesting color patterns and gradients.
Monofilament embroidery thread, often called "invisible" or "nylon" thread, is a unique and versatile option made from a single, long synthetic filament rather than multiple twisted strands like conventional thread. This thread is ideal for creating inconspicuous stitches, and is useful for attaching embellishments like beading, sequins or cording. Quilters often use it for running a quilt pattern over multi-colored and busy fabrics. Monofilament thread can be used in an embroidery pattern for translucent effects, or for anchoring patches and applique elements. It is available in a clear option for light fabrics and a "smoke" variation for dark fabrics.
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Embroidery stabilizers are essential for creating professional-looking, durable embroidery, and it’s important to know which kind to use with different fabrics and design requirements. A stabilizer provides support and stability to your fabric, prevents puckering and distortion, and keeps your fabric steady in the hoop during the actual embroidery process. In many cases, a stabilizer is meant to remain with the embroidered item for the life of the garment to continue keeping it stable. We’ll explain how to choose the right one for your project.
Cut-away stabilizers are essential to use with embroidery done on stretchy knit fabrics of all kinds (t-shirts, sweatshirts, polo shirts and performance wear) and are made to remain with the embroidered design for the life of the garment, providing permanent support through multiple washings and wearings.
Tear-away stabilizers are suitable for embroidery done on stable, non-stretchy fabrics like heavier or tightly woven materials like twill, denim or canvas. They provide temporary support during the embroidery process itself, but are meant to be torn away and removed after stitching.
Water-soluble stabilizers and toppings are made to dissolve in water, leaving no residue behind, and are often used for delicate fabrics and free standing lace.
Heat-away stabilizers disappear with the application of heat, such as an iron or heat gun, leaving behind no trace of stabilizer residue and are suitable for materials that are water-sensitive or cannot be submerged in water.
Cap stabilizers are specially designed for embroidering on hats and caps, providing stability and support during the embroidery process on the curved cap frame to ensure crisp and clean designs.
Also sometimes called “puff embroidery foam,” 3D foam creates a three-dimensional effect by elevating certain areas of the stitching above the fabric surface. This popular look is often seen on baseball caps.
Appliqué stabilizers are used specifically for applique embroidery techniques, where support and structure are needed for contrasting fabric pieces that will be appliqued (and often embellished with embroidery), onto a base fabric.
Patch-making films and stabilizers are made specifically for creating embroidered patches and provide support and structure to the patch while it’s being stitched.
Recycled or eco-friendly embroidery stabilizers are made from sustainable materials are perfect for embroidering on sustainable clothing, and are environmentally friendly alternatives to traditional stabilizers.
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Bobbins may seem small, but they play a vital role in embroidery; you can’t make embroidery without them. Bobbins are small, flat spools of thread that fit in a bobbin case and are installed inside the compartment underneath the throat plate on the embroidery machine. Every time the needle passes through the material, the bobbin thread interlocks with the top thread to make a complete stitch.
The thread on pre-wound bobbins is generally a fine thread (usually around a 70-weight), designed specifically for use during machine embroidery. The lightweight nature of bobbin thread helps to reduce bulk and minimize tension issues, resulting in smoother stitches on the underside of the fabric.
There are several types of bobbins, each with its own advantages. We’ll provide a quick explanation of each type so that you can best choose the right one for your machine.
Paper-sided pre-wound bobbins have a paper core and paper sides, which allow for smooth feeding during the stitching process. They are the most common type of pre-wound embroidery bobbin used in industrial embroidery machines.
Magnetic bobbins feature a magnetized core or a magnetized side, which creates a light attraction to the inside of the bobbin case. This helps prevent uneven tensions from developing as the bobbin unwinds and gets lighter during use, and ensures consistent stitch quality.
Sideless bobbins have no paper or plastic sides and are held together with a binder. This allows for a greater thread capacity and reduces the risk of thread jams or tangles during the embroidery process.
Plastic-sided bobbins feature transparent plastic sides, which provide durability and smooth thread delivery during embroidery. Since the sides are not made of absorbent paper, they are a good choice for those doing machine embroidery in humid climates.
Flame-resistant bobbins are wound with thread made from specialized materials that resist combustion, providing safety on clothing and textiles where fire and spark risk are concerns.
For those who wind their own bobbins, bobbin thread can be purchased on a cone.
The metal bobbin case, which houses the bobbin (one per head on an embroidery machine), is a lightweight cylindrical part that supports the bobbin and helps to keep the bobbin thread at the proper tension during the stitching process. On industrial embroidery machines, bobbin cases will either be a style L (about the size of a nickel) or a style M (about the size of a quarter). You will want to order the proper size case and bobbins for your machine, and we strongly recommend you keep one spare bobbin case per head. While the average bobbin case will last between 9 and 18 months, eventually, they do wear out and will begin to lose the ability to keep an even tension. It is wise to have a new spare ready for each head at all times.
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Having the right accessories is vital. In addition to thread, backing and bobbins, there are several essential accessories that can streamline your workflow and make your embroidery experience more efficient and enjoyable. Let’s take a look at some of these must-have embroidery supplies and their functions.
Essential Accessories, Tools, Supplies To Retail
Having the right accessories can streamline your embroidery process and make your projects more enjoyable. We'll highlight essential tools and notions and explain what each one does.
Needles
It should go without saying that needles are essential for machine embroidery. They are available in various sizes and point types to accommodate different machines, fabrics, and techniques.
Adhesive Sprays
Temporary adhesives are used to secure fabric to stabilizers to secure materials and prevent unwanted shifting during the embroidery process.
Oils
Oils are used to lubricate and maintain the moving parts of the embroidery machine, ensuring smooth operation and extending the machine’s lifespan.
Storage
Storage solutions, such as boxes, cabinets, and racks, help you organize your threads, and protect them from loss, dust, and tangling, ensuring they are always easily accessible and inventoried.
Thread Removal Tools
Essentials such as seam rippers and thread snips are used to remove unwanted stitches or trim excess thread from embroidery projects. The Peggy Stitch Eraser can quickly and easily remove entire embroidered designs from fabrics, saving costly garment replacement.
Shears, Scissors, and Snips
Essential for cutting stabilizers, fabric, and threads and available in various shapes and sizes for different cutting needs. It is wise to have a range of these in your embroidery room, as well as several of your favorite small snips for use in the embroidery room.
Touch-Up Pens
These special marking pens are used to lightly touch up small areas of bobbin thread showing through on top of the embroidered design.
Hooping Aids
Hooping aids are devices used to hold fabric taut and in place while hooping. Hoopers assist the embroiderer with proper design placement on various-size garments, stabilization of the item intended for embroidery, and precise stitching.
Tension Gauges
Tension gauges are tools used to measure and adjust the tension of top thread and bobbin thread. Each kind of thread has an ideal tension range, and each bobbin needs to be adjusted when loading into the bobbin case. A good tension gauge will save time and headaches when changing threads and bobbins.
Color Cards
Thread color cards display swatches of actual threads in the full-color range available, helping embroiderers select the perfect shades for their projects.
Needle Changers
Needle changers are handy tools used to accurately change needles on the embroidery machine, ensuring the correct positioning of each needle, which is essential for smooth operation.
Rulers
Used for measuring stabilizers and fabric, and for marking center placement marks on items being embroidered.
Precision Screwdrivers
A daily necessity for changing needles and adjusting tensions on bobbin cases. We recommend always having a few handy.
Brushes
Small cleaning brushes for cleaning up lint and debris from embroidery machines will keep your equipment running smoothly and prevent dirt and build-up.
Oiler Pens
Precision-tipped oiler pens are filled with lubricating oil, allowing the embroiderer to apply oil to specific parts of the machine for regular maintenance.
Tape
Masking tape or other adhesive tape is handy for securing fabric or puff foam or for marking guidelines on embroidery projects.
Tweezers
Indispensable for picking up threads or for trimming.
The Right Accessories Are Crucial
Choosing the right accessories can make all the difference in your embroidery projects. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced embroiderer, having the right tools at your disposal is essential for success.
Embroidery is a beautiful art form that allows you to express your creativity and create stunning designs. With the right supplies and accessories, the possibilities are endless. Happy stitching!
Below, we’ve listed some of the most commonly asked questions about embroidery supplies. Check to see if the answer to your question is among them.
1. What type of embroidery thread should I use, polyester or rayon?
The type of thread you choose depends first and foremost on the needs and requirements of your projects. For instance, if you tend to embroider items that will be subjected to chlorine, bleach, or outdoor elements, you would be wise to choose a polyester thread that can withstand those challenges without color change. If your project is only going to be laundered in normal detergent or spot-cleaned, and you’re looking for a lustrous, satiny finish, you may wish to choose rayon thread. Both perform well at high speeds and are beautiful with brilliant shine with a wide range of colors, which means you won’t need to compromise on look or shade availability.
2. How do I choose the right stabilizer for my project?
When deciding on which backing to use, the first thing you’ll want to determine is whether your fabric is knit (stretchy) or a woven (non-stretch) since instability of the fabric is the most important consideration in stabilizing an embroidered design. Stretchy fabrics require a cut-away stabilizer that will remain behind the design for the life of the garment and keep the design from warping out of shape or curling. Non-stretchy fabrics usually don’t require much more than a tear-away backing to help with smooth stabilization during the embroidery process itself. Considerations like the weight (thickness) of the stabilizer vary according to factors like the density of the design, the transparency and end use of the garment, and the comfort of the wearer.
3. What's the difference between plastic-sided and paper-sided bobbins?
The most popular style of pre-wound bobbins are paper-sided bobbins because they are reliable and lightweight. They are the bobbin you’ll find most often in industrial embroidery machines. Plastic-sided bobbins perform the same way as paper-sided bobbins, but they are particularly useful in areas where the climate is subject to high humidity. In such conditions, paper-sided bobbins can absorb excess moisture from the air and swell, increasing the risk of jamming inside the bobbin case. Plastic-sided bobbins are not subject to this issue and are ideal for embroidery shops operating in humid conditions. Also, some embroiderers prefer plastic-sided bobbins because the transparent plastic allows them to easily see how much thread is left on the bobbin without removing it from the case.
4. How do I store my embroidery supplies to keep them organized?
Consider using locking storage boxes, cabinets, or bins to keep your supplies tidy and easily accessible. Use labeled containers for small accessories, and keep your workspace clean and clear of loose threads, lint and grease or oil. While thread racks are fine for colors you use and replace frequently, generally, threads keep best and last longest in a climate-controlled environment away from bright sunlight, dust, excessive heat and humidity. Consider covered or protected storage for your full collection of colors.
5. Ok, once I’ve got my thread, embroiderable garments, bobbins and stabilizer, what accessories do I need for embroidery?
Essential accessories include needles (both sharps and ballpoints), spray adhesive, shears for cutting backing, small scissors and snips, an iron, a needle threader, a seam ripper, and marking pens.
6. How do I know which needle size to use? And should I use a sharp or a ballpoint?
The size needle you’ll need depends on thread weight (thickness). Generally, you will need smaller needles for finer threads and larger needles for thicker threads. When choosing your threads online or from one of our color cards, be sure to pay attention to the recommended needle size listed for each thread.
Once you know what size needle you need, you will also make a decision on whether to use a sharp point needle or a ballpoint needle. The point type should be compatible with the type of fabric you are using to avoid unfortunate holes, puckers and ripples. The rule of thumb is that knits (stretchy fabrics) and light wovens will require a ballpoint needle and heavy wovens benefit from a sharp point needle. We recommend you stock your most commonly used needle size in both sharp and ballpoint options and expect to swap out needles from project to project as your needle requirements change.
7. Can I use regular household scissors for cutting embroidery thread, backing and fabric?
While possible, dedicated pairs of shears, embroidery scissors and thread snips with sharp blades and fine points are preferred for precise cutting. Using household multipurpose scissors may result in frayed, shredded edges or uneven cuts.
8. What's the purpose of using sprays and adhesives in embroidery room?
Spray adhesives help secure the layer of fabric and stabilizer together and keep them from shifting during embroidery. A quick spritz of temporary adhesive will ensure precise design registration and minimize puckering, especially on very stretchy fabrics. They are also essential when using applique techniques.
9. How often should I oil my embroidery machine?
It depends on usage, but a general rule is to oil your rotary hook every 4 to 6 hours of running time. Follow your machine manufacturer’s guidelines for maintenance instructions specific to your machine make and model.
10. Can I use embroidery thread for sewing?
Embroidery thread is made for embellishment only. While you can use embroidery thread to secure decorative elements like appliqued fabrics in a design, it is not engineered to be strong enough for secure seams for construction sewing.
Common Mistakes Made
Sometimes we discover best practices by learning what not to do. Here is a list of the primary pitfalls commonly encountered by embroiderers and how to avoid them.
1. Using the wrong stabilizer for the fabric:
- Mistake: Thinking you can get away with just a simple tear away for everything you embroider because it’s “easier” to just buy one kind of backing.
Why this doesn’t work: Tear aways are great for stable woven fabrics that don’t stretch and thus don’t require much stabilization during and after being embroidered. But because stretchy knit fabrics are so common (t-shirts, polo shirts, hoodies, performance wear, etc.) you will need cut away backings for these. Using a tear away on these popular garments will result in embroidery that will look terrible; your work will pucker, cup, curl, and warp out of shape either right out of the hoop or after the first few washings and wearings.
2. Not taking the time to set your thread tensions correctly:
- Mistake: Assuming your thread tension won’t change from thread type to thread type.
Why this doesn’t work: Each kind of thread (rayon, polyester, metallic, etc.) requires different tensions to run smoothly and trouble free on every embroidery machine. Incorrect thread tension can result in loose, looped stitches that show up in the design and/or thread breakage that slows down or stops the embroidery process.
- Best Practice: Follow your machine’s manual for adjusting thread tension and begin with the recommended settings for each kind of thread you’re using. Make very small adjustments as necessary while testing on scrap fabric.
3. Neglecting to change needles regularly:
- Mistake: Expecting your needles to last longer than is recommended.
Why this doesn’t work: Needles are delicate and can become dull or damaged quickly, especially when stitching on thicker, heavier or coarse fabrics like twill, denim, nylon and canvas. When you use a needle beyond its expected life span, you risk broken needles in the middle of a job, skipped stitches, snags in the fabric of your garment, and uneven stitching.
- Best practice: Change your needles frequently, especially when switching threads types or fabric types. Replace needles after every 8 hours of embroidery time, or sooner if stitch quality has degraded or if they look or feel dull or damaged. The cost per needle is very small, and the quickest and least expensive way to improve the quality of your embroidery is to simply pop in a fresh needle.
4. Not properly securing the fabric and stabilizers in the hoop:
- Mistake: Believing that the hoop is sufficient to hold any item intended for embroidery in place.
Why this doesn’t work: Failing to secure fabric and stabilizers on certain fabrics can allow trampolining and shifting during the embroidery process, which results in misaligned designs or puckering.
- Best practice: Using a light spritz of temporary spray adhesive as needed to secure the fabric and stabilizer layers firmly together before hooping can mitigate problems before they start. Ensure that the fabric is taut and smooth to prevent wrinkles and distortions. This is particularly necessary when embroidering on very stretchy items or slippery fabrics.
5. Using low-quality thread:
- Mistake: Cutting corners by using lower quality thread to save money.
Why this doesn’t work: Saving money is always a worthy goal, of course. However, embroidery thread is the main ingredient in the art of embroidery, and the color, sheen and evenness of texture quality is the one thing that is visible to the viewer after the garment is unhooped, trimmed and the excess stabilizer is cut away. Using inferior thread can result in poor stitch quality, finished designs that look cheap, coarse and dull, or colors that degrade quickly with wear. Additionally, lesser quality threads break and fray more often, causing frequent machine stops and requiring rethreading of the needle for every thread break. Time is money. Thread that runs smoothly with few thread breaks is a greater money saver than using cheap thread.
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Best Practice: Invest in the best high-quality embroidery thread you can afford. Look for threads designed for high-speed machine embroidery with a reputation for quality, and breakage resistance when properly tensioned. Choose thread with excellent colorfastness and strength ratings to ensure lasting results. Using the highest quality threads will elevate the look and feel of your embroidery work on even the simplest designs. Never cut corners on your embroidery thread.
6. Overfilling bobbins you wind yourself:
Why this doesn’t work: Incorrect bobbin tension caused by overfilling wind-your-own bobbins can result in uneven stitches or thread jams.
- Best practice: Wind bobbins smoothly and evenly for consistent results and be careful to fill bobbins to the recommended level indicated by your machine’s manual. Avoid overstuffing bobbins, which will nearly guarantee tension issues, and create bobbin thread showing on the top of your embroidery or pulling down too much top thread to the bottom of your embroidery.
7. Neglecting machine maintenance:
Why this doesn’t work: Your embroidery machine is a big investment, and regular maintenance is an ongoing part of that investment. Neglecting recommended regular maintenance tasks can lead to poor stitch formation, time-consuming malfunctions, expensive repairs and a shortened lifespan for your embroidery machine.
- Best practice: Familiarize yourself with your embroidery machine’s recommendations for regular maintenance and stick to a schedule. Clean and oil your embroidery machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions, keep your machine free of lint, debris and dust to ensure smooth operation and optimal performance, and maintain a tidy and organized embroidery room. Call a technician for any service beyond the scope of regular cleaning and oiling.
8. Hooping fabric too tightly or loosely:
Why this doesn’t work: As an embroiderer, you will most likely be embroidering on a wide variety of fabrics and garments with different textures, stretch-capacities and thicknesses. Each project can present diverse challenges; hats, performance wear, canvas bags, guitar straps, sock cuffs and pockets all require very different approaches to hooping securely in preparation for embroidery. Improper hooping can cause fabric to distort out of shape or pucker, or can result in a misalignment or poor registration.
- Best practice: Expect to spend some time practicing hooping various garments and other items. You will need to become familiar with learning to hoop fabric with enough tension to keep it taut but not over-stretched. Your goal is to eliminate wrinkles and folds, and to get the fabric to lie flat and smooth within the hoop.
9. Not testing designs or settings before embroidering:
- Mistake: Assuming that your design will stitch out as perfectly as displayed in the thumbnail photo where you purchased it without a test stitch.
Why this doesn’t work: When you skip the test stitch or fail to check the recommended embroidery settings, you risk getting unexpected results, disappointing outcomes or mistakes in your final design. Further, you risk ruining costly garments.
- Best practice: Always run a test stitch on a spare garment or a scrap of fabric similar to the one you are intending to use in your final project. This allows you to uncover challenges the fabric may pose so that you can make adjustments to your machine or your process. You may need to adjust your thread tension and design placement. Substituting colors in a design is another good reason to run a test stitch, since it can be difficult to predict from looking at a cone of thread on the shelf how certain shades will interact with each other and the color of the garment.
10. Failing to organize and label supplies:
Why this doesn’t work: Disorganized embroidery supplies can lead to wasted time, frustration and misplaced or lost items. Wasted time looking for supplies can be better spent embroidering and making money for your business. Failure to keep an accurate inventory means you may be stuck without basic supplies: running out of bobbins means no embroidery.
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Best practice: Keep your embroidery supplies organized and labeled for easy access. Use transparent storage containers, shelving, bins or drawers to categorize threads, needles, stabilizers, and other accessories. Regularly inventory supplies to replenish or replace items as needed. A smart inventory system also means you are able to track your expenses for tax purposes at the end of each year.
Mastering the art of embroidery isn’t just about pretty designs, creativity and skill. It is as much about working smart, keeping organized and prioritizing high-quality where it counts most. Understanding the properties and best applications of different thread options, and learning how to select the correct needles and stabilizers for each fabric, and utilizing the proper tools and techniques are crucial steps in creating professional quality embroidery.
Attention to detail is as much about machine maintenance as it is about bobbin thread tension and running test designs. If you learn why best practices are best, you can easily avoid common mistakes, or replace poor habits you may have picked up along the way.
Ultimately, your own dedication to learning embroidery and how to be excellent at the art of embroidery and understanding everything there is to know about the tools and techniques of the trade will serve you well. You’ll be rewarded with the freedom to unleash your creativity and bring your visions to life with stunning embroidered designs, whether bold and colorful or soft and delicate. When you master your machine, your tools and techniques, every stitch can be a masterpiece.